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I also had this problem on my brand new 2017 Touring. I had to replace my first battery within a few months and less than 6 months after that replacement, I have to replace the battery again. We have only started using the second key about 4 months ago and it just died today. We do not keep our keys close to our car and drive very little so this is very surprising to us.
I have the same on a 2017 CRV--second battery in 6 months. I know how to replace but this is silly
 
I got 2.5 years out of mine. I didn't use the fob to unlock the doors, mostly just remote starts.
Same here. I always lock/unlock my CRV by touch on the appropriate handle or button. The Vehicle will check and confirm the fob is present.. but that is a low power check (you must be very close to the vehicle).

Whereas constantly using the fob buttons is a high power transmission (it transmits and receives to a range of over 100 feet). Simple math demonstrates that the difference in power to transmit is an order of magnitude higher for using a fob button actively. If the battery is down to ~ 30% remaining life, and you use the buttons on the fob.. it will likely trigger a warning of low voltage on the instrument panel.

I check the voltage on a battery as soon as I replace it on one of my fobs and I see a pretty consistent measurement of 2.9vdc when the low battery alert comes on on the instrument cluster and I immediately change the battery.

2032s are spec'ed at a nominal voltage of 3.0 vdc, however right out of the package a fresh battery should measure 3.3-3.4 vdc (open circuit). There are however a lot of junk batteries out on the market that ship with nominal open circuit voltages of as low as 3.0 vdc. I have had the best luck with Sony brand 2032s... bought fresh (ie: shows an expiration date of at least 4 years from the date of packaging.

A 2032 has a very flat voltage curve for the first 90% of it's life as it discharges. It is considered "dead" when it's voltage reaches 2.7 vdc. So the Hondas appear to have a proper warning of low battery voltage when they trigger at 2.9 vdc because normally a 2032 lithium battery voltage falls off a cliff pretty quickly after it reaches 2.9 vdc. My fitness tracker does the same... it show a yellow warning at 2.9 vdc and shows a red warning at 2.8 vdc.
 
Oh close, ethylene carbonate is the electrolyte and mangnese dioxide the cathode, last two digits is the thickness 3.2 mm. But I need more.
Commonly refered to as "coin lithium" batteries.

CR is a generic designation... much like AA and AAA for standard general purpose barrel batteries. "C" designates it as a Lithium cell in the ANSI standards, and R stands for round. Some companies, like Duracell will use a DL designator for the generic... to specify that as a branded generic (which is kind of an oxymoron.. so it's more about marketing).

20 is the diameter in mm, and is standard across manufacturers.

32 is the thickness in tenths of a millimeter, and is standard across manufacturers

As for specific internal compounds of a CR2032... while they are commonly called lithium batteries, they are in reality Lithium/Manganese Dioxide (Li/MnO2). The electrolyte can be one of several organic compounds (ethylene carbonate being the most common). The actual lithium content is ~ 0.1 grams (ie: 10% of total battery weight). They are like little hand grenades if you toss one into a fire... so don't ever do that, and don't ever toss them into the trash. Always dispose of them in a proper battery recycling facility.

The ANSI standard specification (IEC-CR2032) for this particular "coin battery" is 240 mAh (to 2.0 volts) (Rated at 15K ohms at 21°C), though in reality they are designed for low duty cycle pulse discharge applications. This makes them them perfect for keyfobs, digital thermometers, and similar low utilizations devices. They have an operating temperture range of -30C to +60C which exceeds normal consumer device operating temperatures.
 
Commonly refered to as "coin lithium" batteries.

CR is a generic designation... much like AA and AAA for standard general purpose barrel batteries. "C" designates it as a Lithium cell in the ANSI standards, and R stands for round. Some companies, like Duracell will use a DL designator for the generic... to specify that as a branded generic (which is kind of an oxymoron.. so it's more about marketing).

20 is the diameter in mm, and is standard across manufacturers.

32 is the thickness in tenths of a millimeter, and is standard across manufacturers

As for specific internal compounds of a CR2032... while they are commonly called lithium batteries, they are in reality Lithium/Manganese Dioxide (Li/MnO2). The electrolyte can be one of several organic compounds (ethylene carbonate being the most common). The actual lithium content is ~ 0.1 grams (ie: 10% of total battery weight). They are like little hand grenades if you toss one into a fire... so don't ever do that, and don't ever toss them into the trash. Always dispose of them in a proper battery recycling facility.

The ANSI standard specification (IEC-CR2032) for this particular "coin battery" is 240 mAh (to 2.0 volts) (Rated at 15K ohms at 21°C), though in reality they are designed for low duty cycle pulse discharge applications. This makes them them perfect for keyfobs, digital thermometers, and similar low utilizations devices. They have an operating temperture range of -30C to +60C which exceeds normal consumer device operating temperatures.
And you get the the cookie!
 

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I just got the warning on Fob 1, on a car I've had since September 2017. Switched to Fob 2, which was a bit of a nuisance...I didn't realize there are a number of settings that are tied to the specific fob. So it took a little doing to get everything back the way I like it.

Hopefully Fob 2 will last until next September, when my lease expires!
 
I just got the warning on Fob 1, on a car I've had since September 2017. Switched to Fob 2, which was a bit of a nuisance...I didn't realize there are a number of settings that are tied to the specific fob. So it took a little doing to get everything back the way I like it.

Hopefully Fob 2 will last until next September, when my lease expires!
Or this. ?

 
I just got the warning on Fob 1, on a car I've had since September 2017. Switched to Fob 2, which was a bit of a nuisance...I didn't realize there are a number of settings that are tied to the specific fob. So it took a little doing to get everything back the way I like it.

Hopefully Fob 2 will last until next September, when my lease expires!
I'm confused, why wouldn't you just change the battery. !?????
 
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